A failed DXpedition on two wheels
An Epic Journey from Bethesda to Tuktoyaktuk: An Operator’s Tale
The Call of the North
In the summer of 2018, I embarked on a journey that would take me from Bethesda, Maryland, to the remote reaches of Tuktoyaktuk, located on the Arctic Ocean in Canada. My mode of transport was none other than my trusty BMW R1200 GS Adventure, a bike that had proven itself on many long and challenging rides. This journey was more than just a test of endurance and skill; it was a quest to reach one of the northernmost points accessible by road and to set up an HF amateur radio transmission from there.
The Route and the Ride
The route I chose was ambitious. From Maryland, I would head northwest through the United States, crossing into Canada and traveling through the expansive provinces of Alberta and British Columbia before tackling the legendary Alaska Highway. This highway, renowned for its stunning scenery and historical significance, offered its own set of challenges and rewards.
One of the highlights along the Alaska Highway was my stay at the Muncho Lake Lodge. Nestled by the emerald waters of Muncho Lake, the lodge provided a serene and picturesque respite from the rigors of the road. The tranquility of the lake, surrounded by towering mountains, was a welcome contrast to the long hours of riding.
Continuing on, I made a stop at the Bees Knees hostel in Whitehorse, Yukon. This cozy and welcoming hostel was a hub for travelers from around the world, and the camaraderie and stories shared with fellow adventurers were inspiring. Whitehorse itself, with its vibrant arts scene and historic charm, was a delightful waypoint on the journey north.
The Dempster Highway Challenge
The Dempster Highway is not for the faint of heart. Known for its gravel roads, unpredictable weather, and remote stretches, it tests the mettle of even the most seasoned riders. My BMW R1200 GS Adventure was well-prepared for the challenge, equipped with all-terrain tires, extra fuel canisters, and a sturdy frame designed for long-haul expeditions.
As I ventured further north, the scenery became increasingly surreal. The vast tundra, dotted with small lakes and crossed by wild rivers, stretched out in every direction. Wildlife sightings became more frequent, with caribou and even the occasional grizzly bear making appearances. The sense of isolation was profound, but so was the sense of connection with the raw, untamed beauty of the land.
Reaching Tuktoyaktuk
After days of challenging riding, I finally reached Tuktoyaktuk. The small community, perched on the edge of the Arctic Ocean, was a stark contrast to the bustling city I had left behind. Here, life moved at a different pace, dictated by the rhythms of nature and the resilience of its inhabitants.
My primary goal was to set up an HF amateur radio transmission, a feat that would connect this remote corner of the world with fellow radio enthusiasts around the globe. My setup included a Yaesu FT-891, a reliable and powerful HF transceiver, and an Alpha Antenna FMJ. Unfortunately, upon unpacking my equipment, I discovered to my dismay that the antenna was defective. Despite meticulous planning and preparation, this unforeseen glitch rendered my transmission plans impossible.
While the defective antenna was a significant disappointment, there was a silver lining. Upon returning home, I reached out to Alpha Antenna, and the company’s owner, Steve, kindly replaced the faulty antenna. Though it was too late for this trip, the new antenna has since proven to be highly effective.
Reflections on the Journey
Though I was unable to transmit as planned, the journey to Tuktoyaktuk was far from a failure. It was a reminder of the unpredictable nature of adventure and the importance of resilience in the face of setbacks. The ride itself was an achievement, showcasing the capabilities of the BMW R1200 GS Adventure and the incredible landscapes of North America.
The trip also offered countless moments of reflection and connection. From the camaraderie with fellow travelers to the quiet solitude of the northern wilderness, every mile brought new experiences and insights. It was a journey that tested my limits, both physically and mentally, and left me with memories that would last a lifetime.
A Historic Achievement
Adding to the significance of this journey was the fact that I was the first motorcyclist to ride up the Dempster Highway all the way to Tuktoyaktuk in the year the Inuvik-Tuktoyaktuk Highway (ITH) opened. This new stretch of road made it possible to reach the Arctic coast by land for the first time, marking a historic moment for adventurers and travelers alike.
Looking Ahead
While the defective antenna was a disappointment, it has only fueled my determination to return to Tuktoyaktuk one day, better prepared and ready to achieve my goal. The spirit of amateur radio is one of perseverance and community, and I look forward to the day when I can make that elusive transmission from the Arctic.
For now, I cherish the journey and the lessons it taught me. From Bethesda to Tuktoyaktuk, the road was long and often challenging, but it was a testament to the enduring allure of exploration and the endless possibilities that lie just beyond the horizon.
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